How To Choose and Install a New Power Supply Unit (PSU) In Your Computer
Posted on March 18, 2009 by admin
a typical PSU
If your Power Supply Unit (PSU) died recently or if your PSUs fan is on the fritz or if you just want to get a bit more “P” in your PSU, then a replacement or upgrade may be just what the PC doctor ordered.
Warranty
If you are thinking of replacing your computer’s PSU, you may want to check to see if it is still covered under warranty. Most PUS’s come with some kind of warranty and it is entirely likely that you might be able to get a new one for free. However, you may need to uninstall your old one and send it in and will still need to install the new one when it arrives. If you go this route, be sure not to break any seals on the unit or else you may void the warranty.
Then again, maybe you might not want to go with that same PSU for fear that what ever problems you had might just repeat themselves. Since my last PSU was partially the cause of my computer’s overheating disorder (refer to my article “PC Heat Stroke: What To Do When Your Computer Overheats“), I made it a point to do a little bit of research and to not only replace my PSU, but to upgrade it as well.
Specs
After doing my research into the world of PSUs I realized quickly that it is important to check for compatibility, efficiency, length of warranty, proper voltage, noise rating (if it matters to you) and the MTBF (mean time between failures) rating. Your computer’s manual should be able to tell you what is compatible, or you could always copy the specs of what is already installed just to be safe. Also, you want to make sure to check the size of your PSU. Different cases accommodate different sized PSUs. Just to be safe, I chose to find a PSU with the same physical dimensions as my old unit.
PSU Manufacturers
There are many brands of PSUs out there ranging in price from under $30 to over $300. However, I was on a budget so I decided to try and keep it under $100. Also, I needed one fast. My computer wasn’t doing me any good just sitting on my desk…completely powerless.
Some of the top PSU manufacturers include:
APEVIA/Aspire
Coolermaster
Coolmax
Corsair
FSP
PC Power & Cooling
Powmax
Raidmax
Rosewill
Seasonic
Silverstone
Thermaltake
Zalman
My Choice
If you are on a budget like me (unless you are a gamer looking for the best in top-tier systems such as PC Power & Cooling, FSP, and Seasonic) you can surely find something to suit your needs for under $100.
Choosing a PSU is a personal decision based on the many factors above. In the end, I decided to go with PC Power & Cooling’s “Silencer 420 ATX” for it’s 82% efficiency rating, low noise (20-34dB), compatibility (ATX12V 2.2), size, MTBF of 100,000 hrs, 5-year warranty, size (5.9 x 3.4 x 5.9), .99 power factor correction, and at 420W I was upgrading my power from 350W. All of this cost me $64.99 factory direct, but since then, I found it for only $60.99 at www.TheNerds.net.
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 420 ATX12V Power Supply – 420 W
However, another option I considered was just running out to RadioShack. They sell Thermaltake’s “PurePower 2.0″ which, for the price of $35, is a great buy. It also sports an MTBF of 100,00 hours and has a 5-year warranty. It has less power at 350W and is a bit louder and less efficient than the “Silencer 420 ATX”. Considering the price difference is $30, I decided to go with the higher-end manufacturer. Then again, for those of you who can’t wait, there is probably a RadioShack nearby or if you are on a budget and can wait a couple days, I’ve provided the link below:
Thermaltake PurePower W0118RU ATX12V Power Supply – 350 W
As for uninstalling and installing your new PSU, it couldn’t be easier.
Power Supply Precautions
Note: Some brand name PCs use specially designed power supplies. You may want to contact them directly before installing a new power supply. Also, an unplugged power supply still can give you a powerful electric shock by put something inside an open vent.
Prep the Computer
NOTE: Never attempt to open or work on your computer until it has been turned off and unplugged. Always touch a metal part of the case to ground yourself before attempting to handle any part of the mother board as the static electricity built up in your hand can easily destroy the delicate circuity.
First, turn off the computer and unplug the power cord. Next, open the computer. Some computers have a button or buttons that you press to open the box. Some have screws on the rear of the case which must be removed. I just need to remove the screws on the back of the case. Slide the casing back. Now you have access to the inside of your computer.
Remove the Old Power Supply
If you are replacing a power supply, you will first need to unplug all devices that are currently connected to it, and then unscrew it from the case. Take off the screws and carefully remove the old unit making sure not to hit other parts. Save your screws for the new power supply.
Install the New PC Power Supply
Now, align the new power supply with the cooling fan facing out the back of the case. Mount the unit with your screws. It is a good idea to hold the unit in place so it doesn’t fall on other components.
Set the Power Supply Voltage
Once it is firmly in place, you must set the voltage switch. If you live in North America or Japan, set the switch to 110/115v. If you are in Europe, set the switch to 220/230v. Check to see what voltage your power supply is if you live outside of these areas.
Plug in the Computer’s Components
It’s time to plug in all of your computer components. Take the biggest plug and connect your motherboard. Attach the four pin connectors to hard drives and CD or DVD drives, and use the small four pin connector for your floppy drive if you have one.
Reassemble the Computer
Close up your computer and plug in all of your cables. Flip power switch to the on position on the power supply. And then boot up your computer with the power button which is normally on the front of the computer.
If something doesn’t work properly, you most likely didn’t connect the power cables tight enough.